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Good Tournament Practices

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Netter
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Good Tournament Practices

This article is intended for new, or newer, tournament players that have had little exposure to a war-gaming tournament environment. It can, however, provide benefit for more experienced players. Even as I wrote the article and solicited opinion on many of the points herein I was presented with more that I had not considered or that were forgotten. I have tried to remain vague or avoid topics that fall beyond the scope of ‘common good practice.’ I will leave those points for a separate debate. When possible I have tried to differentiate between ‘must’ and ‘should’ where there are differing points of view amongst the gaming community. In an effort to keep this article current, accurate and thorough, I encourage any reader to provide feedback through the Warmaster’s Challenge website (www.warmasterschallenge.com). I am happy to make any additions or adjustments where it is reasonable.

Common Good Practice for War-gaming Tournaments
So you want to go to a tournament and have a good time? Keep reading and I’ll guide you along a foolproof path to having a good time and making sure your opponents do too. Don’t feel overwhelmed. Most of this straightforward and you probably do most of this already.
Pretournament
Make sure you pick an event that is not likely to conflict with your schedule. This may seem obvious but sometimes even choosing an event close to another ‘possible’ personal conflict can cause you to miss. Also, make sure you can be at the event on time. This is usually a transportation issue. If you are uncertain about start times, dates or event address, contact the tournament organizer to clarify. A good organizer will be more than happy to verify details like this, especially if it means you’re on time. This is also a good time to ask the organizer any other questions you have about the event.
Okay, you can be there, and on time, so now what? Well, a lot. Make sure that you have a good idea of what the tournament involves. How many rounds are there? Are there scenarios? Are you required to submit your army list in advance? Do you need to sign up or pay in advance? Are there specific composition rules? Is painting a requirement? Some of these things may not matter much to you; others may matter a lot. In some cases, it can impact your potential outcome in the tournament. For example, some tournaments offer bonus points for submitting army lists early. Many events will also offer a small discount for paying beforehand. The main thing is to choose a tournament that you will likely enjoy because that’s the point. All right, now you’ve got an event that you want to attend and can attend. You also know what you need to do to prepare. I suggest booking and, if possible, paying as early as the event allows to confirm a spot.
Be sure to allow yourself enough time to prepare (assemble, paint, etc) any models in your list that fall short of the tournament requirements. How much time this allows will depend mostly on you. Just be sure to give yourself enough time. In certain extremes a tournament will disallow unassembled/unpainted models from being fielded. At best, your presentation score will take a hit.
I strongly suggest reviewing the core rules of the game system. This doesn’t need to be a full reread of the book, but flipping through and reading sections that will likely apply to your list is never a bad move. At the very least, be familiar with the rules for your own army. Most gamers are not bothered if you are fuzzy on the rules for their army as long as you know your own. Play with your list as much as possible prior to the event so you can improve your game and keep sharp on your rules. You and your opponents will appreciate the benefit of a more competitive game.
Finally, remember to have, and pack, the essentials for a game. This includes rule books, dice, templates, measuring tape/stick, army list, story (if required), display board, markers, movement trays, etc. You may also wish to bring glue, paint, brushes, modelling knives, or other repair items for last minute fix-ups for models that don’t survive the travel. Some events may have a repair table but you can’t count on it. Finally, bring money to pay for the tournament, if you haven’t already paid.
Tournament Day
It usually doesn’t matter what you wear. The typical gamer has little concern for fashion or anything like that. In general, even remotely conservative clothing will be more than adequate (this is coming from a guy that frequently dons outrageous Hawaiian shirts). Let’s just say that I’ll start docking sportsmanship heavily (and I’m not the only one) when I see more of you than I should. This also means that shier belly tops are out. There is no easy way to express the next point: don’t friggin’ smell. A little funk toward the end of a hot day is forgivable but heavy body odour early in the tournament day is vile and makes for a difficult game in direct proportion to the level of odour. (I once zeroed an opponent on sportsmanship because of poor play style and being the distinct source of body odour and manure stink. True story. Very, very bad, folks). I have taken to keeping deodorant in my car for emergency purposes. (Another quick point is not to go overboard on cologne, hairspray or other scented products).
Be on time or early; early is better. If you are not familiar with the location, allow extra time to find the address and a parking spot.
Sign-in as soon as you get in. The organizer appreciates this and it keeps you from forgetting to do so once this get going.
Find a place to set up your army and put it out early. Many tournaments make an effort to set table terrain prior to the event; try not to move any terrain if the tables are the only place to set up. If there is not a designated spot to stow your army case(s) then try to find an out of the way spot for this (your car works, too). This is also a good time to see where the washroom is (important!). During this time, and after your army is set up, try to mingle. This is especially important if you don’t know many (or any) of the other players. The best bet is to take a quick look at the other armies that are set up and then get chatting. Meeting new people is a fun part of the tournament experience. The tactical advantage, for an experienced player, is that you can see what lists you may need to play and start thinking about tactical approaches to beating them.
Talking to people is natural for some and daunting for others. Regardless of how naturally social you are, there are some common pointers for the tournament environment. People usually like to talk about their own army, why they play it, what theme/background they like, and tactical aspects of it. If you develop a quick rapport, you are almost certain to hear a war story or two from a previous game or tournament. Because some people are not overly social themselves, it never hurts to talk about your own a list, as well. If you came with other players or know some of the players it’s okay to hang out with them so long as you’re open to talking to others when approached.
Finally, make sure you stop and listen to the tournament organizer’s opening speech. Sometimes this doesn’t really do much other than welcome you but it can give you important information about the schedule, scenarios, match-ups, etc. It’s also respectful to the organizer.
The Games
This is really what the event is about, after all. Strangely, this is where most of the grey area occurs in terms of how to conduct yourself. There are some common good practices.
Be on time for the game. I don’t know any gamers that are content to lose a substantial amount of time (at a paid event, especially) waiting for an opponent to show up. (As a side note, if you tend to play slowly it is even more important to be on time for the start of your games. Most tournament players will forgive one or the other, but late and slow together is going to make for a grumpy game, with poor scores to match).
Introduce yourself before the game if you haven’t already met your opponent. Either way, I suggest shaking hands properly (firm grip, eye contact, one or two ‘shakes’) and wishing good luck to your opponent. Some players tend do this after deployment is completed. What is important is that you make the gesture before the game gets going.
If you are playing a newer opponent, ask them if they are familiar with the basics of your army. If not, offer to give them a fast and dirty run down of any generic rules that apply to your list. This can save time later on in the game and prevent misunderstandings. Examples of this are rules such as cold-blooded, size matters, undead, and so forth. It is usually acceptable to ask the same from your opponent. Indicating that you are a newer player can help. Just be sure to pay attention to whatever they tell you!
Take the time to identify the terrain on the table. Usually this is self-evident, however it is important remember that players from different areas may have ‘local house rules’ that they have adopted as standard (and you may have done so yourself). It usually takes no more than ten seconds and can do wonders over the course of the game.
If there is a scenario, read and understand it. Some tournaments, such as the Warmaster’s Challenge, post the scenarios in advance. Do your best to understand the scenario within a short amount of time. It is also good practice to quickly clarify any points that you are unclear about with your opponent prior to the game. This is another good way to avoid issues in the game. If you cannot agree on a point, the organizer can always be consulted, but I would avoid this unless you’re completely uncertain about it (a poor way to kick off a game, too).
Game Play
This is like riding a bike. Easy to do but hard to explain. Many issues are those of preference.
Know the rules! Know the rules! Know the rules! You are there to play a game, so it’s best to know how to play. You don’t need to have them memorized or be a master, but knowing the basics is essential to you and your opponent having a good time. If you’re new to the hobby, it’s okay to say so. Just don’t be constantly flipping through the rule book, asking your opponent or playing incorrectly. These things can suck the life out of a game. If you’re really new to the hobby (played only a game or two) a tournament is not the way to start. I would suggest that you have at least a dozen games under your belt before you attend an organized event. In some places there are events specifically for new players.
Rolling dice. Simple enough. Here are some ‘musts’. Always let your opponent know what you’re rolling for in advance. Don’t blurt it out suddenly and drop the dice. It’s easy enough to point and say “rolling to hit zombies with spearmen” or something clear like that. Never, ever speed roll (that is, roll and grab the dice quickly after announcing your successes, then rolling again, etc). When the dice stop rolling I suggest you remove unsuccessful dice and leave the successes. Why? You can’t argue with the dice that are still there, that’s why. Other tips. If you have to roll 30 dice for something, try to break up the roll in blocks for the sake of space and efficiency (say 3 rolls of 10, or 2 rolls of 15). Roll scatter dice close to the point of origin to make the direction easy to follow. Always offer to re-roll the dice or remove successes in the instance that you roll too many dice or make a similar miscue. Fair play, or the lack of it, will have a huge impact on the quality of your game. My final piece of advice: don’t use specific dice for specific rolls. The question of legal dice almost never comes up, however it extremely suspicious when a player only rolls certain dice for certain rolls (most notoriously, the two magic leadership dice). Don’t be that player.
Measuring distances on the table is a basic part of the game. Doing it right is important. Remember to always measure from the same point to the same point on a unit when moving it. (Front to front is strongly suggested because it is usually the most visible to you opponent) Keep the measuring tape/stick in place as you move the model; it is acceptable to mark the spot with a token or finger while moving the unit.
Don’t over measure. The odd time will not be an issue, but constantly measuring out the full move distance for a unit regardless of how far the unit moves is very unpopular. The current rules say different nowadays, however the more experienced gamers played in a time when pre-measuring (measuring to a spot without necessarily moving there) was a dirty and illegal tactic. Some of these gamers will frown upon regular pre-measurement and it could cost you sportsman points.
An important rule of thumb is to take the time to clearly show your opponent any measurements, especially charge distances that are close or ‘game-breaking.’ For example, it is extremely bad form to start moving a charging unit immediately after a quick measurement that is in by fraction of an inch.
A final ‘must not’: do not abuse the measurement rules. Sometimes, things will happen that make it impossible not to gain advantage when estimating distances. Simple math makes it impossible not to. Going out of your way to break the spirit of the rules is a different thing altogether. Here is an extreme example of abuse: wizard lord, cannon, pegasus riding character and crossbowmen all set close to each other an equal distance from a bloodthirster. Top of turn one, the pegasus character pre-measures to a point directly in front of the bloodthirster before moving elsewhere. Now an approximate, but fairly accurate, distance to the bloodthirster is known. In the remaining moves the wizard lord, with primarily 24” ranged spells, knows roughly how much to move up to get range for his spells without entering the charge range of the bloodthirster. The same applies for the crossbowmen with their ranged weapons. To add insult, the wizard lord carefully measures range to the bloodthirster when he casts his first spell. Now he knows the exact range and can target his cannon precisely. An extreme example, but even elements of this type of measuring will cause your sportsman scores to plummet. Be conscious of situations that might cause your measurements to appear suspicious. In the example above, a solution would be to move the wizard and crossbow units before the pegasus. (none of this was an issue when the rule was to move where you measured) I suggest measuring for ranges only when they are close. Always offer your opponent to forgo the measurement if it is clearly in or out of range.
Time is important to consider when carrying out your turn. It’s never fun when a player drags out a turn over trivial or unimportant decisions. This is easier for more experienced players but try to have a plan in place before deployment and be prepared to adjust it if deployment went poorly. From there, simply follow the plan. If all goes well you can just stick to the plan and the decisions for each turn are already done. If the plan starts going badly you just have to do your best to compensate. For warhammer fantasy, I usually find that until meaningful combat takes place, I can loosely plan my next turn while my opponent is playing theirs. Most tournaments allow roughly two hours per game which means that it should take you 9 minutes for your turn, or less, on average to complete a 6 turn game (allowing for 10 minutes of deployment). This may seem tight, but consider that the first turn or two usually go very fast, giving you more time in later turns. As a rule of thumb, don’t doddle or take too much time over minor moves or your opponent may take it badly.
Disputes are one of the toughest things for a new player to get used to, but they are nearly inevitable. For unimportant or petty issues I usually like the 4+ rule, others may not. Most players, veteran or not, are excellent sports about these things and will generally work things out with you. Sometimes it’s best to give your opponent the advantage on such calls. When the issue is more important, such as a game-breaking interpretation of a rule or extremely close measurement, it is best to produce the rule from the book and work it out with common sense, or even a 4+ if need be. If you are certain that you are right then you may need to call a judge. The best way to do this is to suggest this to your opponent. I have found that some opponents take this badly and others are fine with it. If you are a newer player it may take a while for you to figure out what a good reason is to call a judge. If your opponent calls a judge, try to be understanding. It’s always best to know you’ve played the game correctly. In any case, after you’ve made your case to the judge regarding the situation it is important respect their decision, even if you don’t like it. The judge’s decision is always final. I also suggest that you not grumble too much about the decision no matter how it impacts the game.
If you have made an obvious blunder regarding a die roll, measurement or rule, and have noticed it within a correctable time, it is good practice to point it out and offer to fix the situation as best possible. If you make a mistake such as missing a phase or forgetting a beneficial rule until afterwards you can ask your opponent if they mind rewinding the play in question. They are not, however, obligated to let you do this over and you should never, ever hold it against them if they deny the request (it was your error, after all).
Another tough thing to deal with is a difficult player. I can honestly say that one of the most appealing aspects of the miniature war game hobby is the quality of the people involved. It is very, very rare that you will encounter a truly difficult opponent. How to deal with them will depend a lot on how they are difficult. A general approach I take is to pacify them whenever reasonable, keep strictly to the business of the game (no chit-chat) and render final judgement on the score sheet. Do your best to remain calm and be a good sport regardless.
The joys of playing a new player can sometimes present a challenge. To keep the hobby alive and thriving it is important to treat these players respectfully, to a point. Never cut them too much slack or relax completely over rules. Certainly never show them pity or be condescending. They may struggle with the game here and there but it is best to be patient and make the best of the game. If you want to think of it in a more competitive fashion then realize that they are giving you sportsmanship marks like everyone else. Keep in mind that we were all new gamers once.
My final point on game play is about in-game conversation. Tournament play is distinctly less social than regular pick-up games but chatting during the game is good. It makes for a bit of a flat experience when your opponent is so into the game that he doesn’t actually communicate beyond the game. Some players are less chatty and some are far more intense when playing but talking, joking and relating the odd quip about a unit or character experience (they kicked butt last game or they did nothing last game) keeps the game loose and fun. Don’t try too hard if your opponent doesn’t respond but always make the attempt. The flip side is not being so talkative that you delay the game or appear to be unfocused on game play. This could go badly. You will usually get a sense of your opponents personality early enough into the game to make a judgement call. A final note is to use good sense when chatting. If you have just finished destroying your opponent’s army with relative ease or luck, it’s probably a bad time to mention how you always beat that type of army or point out their mistakes.
Post Game
Once the game is over it is time to start counting up victory points, calculate who completed or contested scenario objectives and so forth. Always be willing to clarify how you calculated points lost or made. Unless it’s extremely fishy I would not suggest getting too fussy about your opponents numbers. Always shake your opponents hand after the game.
Fill out your score sheet for the round and return it to the tournament organizer as soon as possible. They always appreciate this and it helps the tournament stay on schedule.
It is never a bad idea to talk with your opponent after the game. This is usually where you can make your best conversation with them. You should put your units in order and prepare them to move to the next table while talking. Try to remain fairly upbeat, regardless of what happened in the game. This is probably one of the toughest things to do, especially if luck was totally against you.
Breaks and Lunch
Most often, tournaments provide lunch. This is a great time to be social and have another look at the armies in the tournament. If lunch is not provided then make a point to go out with other players and eat. Either way, get back to the event location in time to get to your next game.
Post Tournament
Not much to consider here. Staying for the awards, even if you are clearly out of the running for any, is good form. Congratulate the winners if you meet them, especially of it’s an opponent you have played during the tournament. A great way to get to know tournament players is to go out after the event for a meal and/or beverages. Spending some time talking about your experiences and discussing ‘things gaming’ over food and drink is a great time and the best way to wrap up an event.
This article is not intended to be complete with respect to certain aspects of the event. Issues such as army composition and more specifically unsporting tactics are better left for a separate debate. Keep in mind that war-games are meant to be fun. It’s easy to enjoy the game. By keeping a few little things in mind you can ensure that your opponent enjoys the game also.

Testors
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Great article John. One things I'd add re: dice rolling is that you should get in the habit of actually *rolling* your dice. I don't think there are many players that learn how to "drop dice" and get good enough at it that it wouldn't be painfully obvious, but there's just something fundamentally satisfying about the rattle of dice rolling across the table properly. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, flipping your hand over so the dice fall straight down onto the table and don't really roll should be avoided, imo. They should start rolling down your angled hand and keep rolling a short distance across the table (flinging them so hard that they knock off the opposing general's arm is just as bad as dropping :P). This sort of thing is particularly important when rolling a single dice (especially a scatter, likely the easiest die to "drop"). Some players like to throw a single die a short distance upward with a bit of backspin (which is good for dramatic effect imo) - this is fine, as long as it's done away from your opponent's models. I think it should be avoided with the scatter so that you can roll closer to the affected area without chipping paint.

Cheers,
Testors

McBeath
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Good point about the scatter dice rolls. I can't count the number of times somebody has fired blast markers or deep stuck at my end of the table... but rolled the dice on thier end. As it only comes up "hit" 1/3 of the time you'll spend a fair bit of time actually trying to get the angle correct and the marker properly moved, which can make a huge difference. My perfered method is as follows:

- Roll as close to the target as is possible, preferably away from anybodies models.
- If your unsure as to the angel, place a measure stick or even your tape measure alongside the die, at the same angel as the dice is pointing.
- The other player can now do the same with his tape/ect and move the unit/marker. It's way easier to get those angels correct with 2 tapes/sticks than just a small dice and your eye. Just leave the first tape on the table if you can and your all set.

While this sometimes occurs with my own hobby and game group we're usually good at just discussing it and coming to a fair assessment... In a tourny though it can be mighty annoying, or just plain questionable if those dice are rolled all the way across the table.

Netter
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Testors and McBeath: Thanks for the early feedback! I agree on both counts. The scatter is certainly an issue that comes up more often (in my experience) in competitive situations. I'll look to incorporate/elaborate on this in the text. Right now I'm waiting on more feedback before I start up an edit.

Keep it coming,

Netter

McBeath
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One other issue that most recently came up at a tournament this weekend in Woodstock was dice rolls for wounded models.

I managed to destroy another players vehicle, and without asking he then proceeded to roll for the radius of the explosion on his tank. His models were inside the radius, so he rolled to wound them. Now, when he managed to take out one of my tanks, he did the same, rolled for radius and for the wounded models on my side!

Now, I'm not totally sure if this is covered in the rulebook, but in my gaming group(or at any other venue I've every played at for that matter) I've always rolled for radius/wounds on his models, as my shooting has cause these secondary effects, and if my own guys get caught in the blast(which is usually the case with my fire dragons) I'll let my opponent roll for the wounds on them. Perhaps that isn't the case in his group, but consistancy is important here, as he didn't allow me to do the same, or even discuss the issue with me. I don't roll saves for your models, do I? So why would I let YOU roll to wound YOUR own models with my shooting?

In the spirit of having a good game(and to be honest I was already winning) I said nothing, though I was quite annoyed by this. It's always a good idea to talk to your opponent if your unsure as to how to resolve something like this. "Do you want me to roll for the radius of the explosion?". Who knows, maybe his group will play differently, but at least you can establish that.

Through opening a dialoge on the matter you can at least be fair and consistant. You can't always play the game "Your Way", but at least you can meet the other players half way, which is the best you can sometimes hope for in competitve play. Just try to be fair with the people your playing against, as it's these kind of things that cost you those sportsmenship points... or in extreme cases can earn you a reputation as a bad player, which nobody wants when you consider that this is a social enviroment where you'll get to know players from around your area in these tournaments. Winning is great, but you'll find that getting to know people who are as interested in the hobby as you are is even better.

Whiteraven
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McBeath,

Personally, I am a mathematician so I'm not too into the whole luck side of things. Dice are a random proability. Unless, I suspect someone of having loaded dice (which is extremely rare) I don't really care who rolls dice for what. In all honesty, if my opponent wanted to roll all my dice rolls for an entire game that would be fine with me. It is usually not good or bad rolling that cause a loss, its tactical mistakes.

I do agree that rolling can skew an outcome if its strongly weighted one way or another...but I imagine every single wargammer can remember a game where their dice were on fire and when they were ice cold too.

Later,
Greg

"It is not necessary to change. Survival is not mandatory." - W. Edwards Deming
"Nick. The reason to sleep with your eyes open." - Netter

The difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference, but in practice, there is.

McBeath
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I would totally agree that when a dice is rolled "fairly" the outcome is generally set the moment it is released, no amount of "luck" will help... as a note I don't believe in luck myself.

The issue for me is etiquette, not that by rolling "my" dice my oponent somehow changed the outcome. It is a game for me, something I enjoy. While I'm sure some players build an army entirely based on the "math" of it, I don't. I play a game with models I like, who form a theme I'm into and have fun taking "into battle". Part of that fun is rolling the dice to see if my brave fire dragons survive that expolosion for example. I won't take a model in an army just because it's good, I'll take it because I like it. Perhaps my outlook is unsuited to competitive play, but I don't care.

While you and I could build two armies and face off in a game where a third party rolled all of our dice for us, and that wouldn't change the outcome that frankly for me would be a huge waste of my time, and not at all fun for me. Most of what is posted here is about etiquette and "fair" play, giving people the chance to have a good time. I personally am just posting my feelings on a certain issue, and while not everybody who reads this may agree, know that if you play me in a tournament and role my dice for me, your not getting sportsmanship points from me.

For me it just comes down to having a good time on a Saturday, with people who share a like interest. I'm not there to play "mathhammer", I'm there to play a game and meet new people, see great armies(which I did, nice job in Woodstock guys) and have fun. Just my thoughts though, everybody plays for different reasons, some I'm sure just to win, others just to have fun... I guess I fall into the latter category. To each thier own.

GM Lomandalis
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McBeath i totally agree on the whole etiquette bit. not just with dice rolling but with handling models as well. I mean it was the second round of the first Ard Boyz tournament when i was playing against a DE player and he would watch which terminator would die and then hand me the model. i mean, it was only 2.5' across the table, i could grab my own model. I know he was trying to help but it really was more aggrivating than anything else

McBeath
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Yeah, models is another sticky subject for me. My group will often just ask the other player to move for them if they're closer(as were all friends it's all good) but you should never remove another players model without being asked first. People lavish a lot of attention sometimes on thier models, and really don't like them being handled alot.. if I drop my own model it's one thing, if you drop it though.....

Testors
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I'm on board with the whole luck thing... it doesn't really matter who rolls a dice in my mind and, like WhiteRaven, I have an inclination towards the math side of things...I notice when things are coming out on the odds, or when someone is enjoying the top end of the curve, or hurting at the bottom end. But you guys definately have it right on the etiquette thing. All the places I've played, you roll to wound your opponent's models, and they roll against yours. You roll all your own saves. If someone was in a different habit (I could see this for things like vehicle explosions) and they had the courtesy to ask first, I have no issues adjusting my habits, but inconsistency gets on my nerves. I guess I could expand on that...

Cocked dice: sometimes dice don't lie flat. It's part of playing on a table covered with scenery, models and other assorted stuff. Different people have different definitions of what constitutes a cocked die - some say anything not perfectly flat (the definition I favour for my own rolling), other will see if another die will balance on top of it, or only when you can't tell which side is most "up". It doesn't really matter to me, as long as the player is consistent. If you pick up that failed armor save that's barely off level to roll it again, you better pick up that 6 on the vehicle damage chart if it's not flat. I try to remember in tournament play to let my opponent know before the game that I pick up anything not sitting totally flat, just so they know. This is one area where a person can *actually* skew the odds, and some of those individual rolls can really matter.

As to touching models...yeah, pretty simple, always ask first, or wait until you're asked. Whether it's because you could drop it and chip the 57 layer blend or because it was going to be damn close on the charge range and now it's been fiddled with, just don't touch.

Cheers,
Testors

McBeath
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In regards to re-rolling any "not perfectly flat" die:

I guess as long as your totally consistant on the issue I'd be ok with it, though I usually just ask my opponent if he/she would like me to reroll it. Now, if they say yes and don't reroll thier dice I'll likely call them on it, in the very least I'll dock soft points. Just be consistant and open a dialoge, and most of the time you'll do fine.

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